As a traveller exploring through the urban sprawl that is Buenos Aires, it’s hard not to see past the dazzling tango shows and tourist extravaganza that comes with it, but if you delve further into the second largest city in South America you’ll truly see this cultural hub for what it is.
With the highest concentration of theatres in the world and a night-life that is envied by so many other cities around the world, it’s about time you dust off your Spanish because if you really want to access this music scene, it’s somewhat essential.
Buenos Aires is home to a thriving rock scene so entrenched in the country’s makeup that it has its own genre aptly labelled as Rock Nacional (Argentine Rock), while folk music (or as the locals call it Folklorico) is almost as appreciated as the city’s many nightclubs.
But to appreciate this scene, you have to go back to where it started.
As the home of tango and tango music, you should see at least one show before you sample the city’s diverse music culture.
While there’s plenty of tango dancing done on the streets, a restaurant which features both a dance show and accompanying music – bands are usually comprised of flute, violin and guitar – is highly recommended.
You might think that tango music is just a demonstration of the city’s cultural past time, but it has developed as the years have gone by with a sub-genre of ‘electro tango’ or ‘tango fusion’ being created in the early part of this century.
Rock nacional is an international genre and one of the world’s most prominent non-English forms of rock ‘n’ roll. The genre’s artists once had an unwavering commitment to singing only in Spanish, but as rock nacional as evolved since its rise in the 60s, this century has seen an emergence of rock bands singing in English.
There is a rich tapestry of rock styles and sub-cultures from suburban rock, new rock, metal and progressive rock which has developed in Buenos Aires. Today the rock scene is so vast that there is a wealth of music waiting to be discovered by visitors and locals alike.
It seems that as ‘nu-folk’ was becoming a term used by the media in England, folklorico was similarly re-emerging into popular Argentine music. An event even named ‘Fuck Folk’ is held monthly for emerging artists and interested punters.
If catching one of the many gigs that feature rock nacional or folklorico acts in Buenos Aires isn’t your thing, than maybe you should head to one of the city’s many boliches (the local term for nightclubs).
As a city known for it’s night-life it should comes as no surprise that Buenos Aires nightclubs only really get started at around 2am. However the city prides itself on night-life that somehow keeps itself intact when revellers decide at 7am that it’s time to go home.
If the city’s European architecture hits the spot, you might also like to check out some of the European classical music that is also on offer.
Clearly this city of 13 million is home to a music scene that is the envy of the other South American cities. Not many cities have been home to a scene that has spawned it’s own international genre and that is just one of the many reasons pay this city a visit.
Buenos Aires prides itself on its culture and music scene, but unfortunately many tourists leave without it barely registering on their radar. For future travellers, take note, there is more to this city than football and Evita.
Buenos Aires Festivals/Conferences
Quilmes Rock: The biggest rock festival in Argentina is also sponsored by the country’s most famous beer. Held over four days in March, it is hosted at the largest venue in the city, River Plate Stadium. The festival features the biggest international acts every year. In 2012, Foo Fighters, Arctic Monkeys, MGMT, Band of Horses and Joan Jett featured on the lineup. http://www.quilmes.com.ar/rock/detalle
Pepsi Music Festival: Think of it as the Big Day Out of Argentina. With mainstream acts like Black Eyed Peas once appearing on the bill alongside Marilyn Manson, this festival is held over several weekends in September. In 2012 the lineup featured acts such as Kasabian, The Maccabees, Evanescence, Garbage and The Gossip.
http://www.pepsimusic.com.ar/
South American Music Conference: Since its inception in 2004, this conference has become an integral event to the city’s calendar and incredibly important for electronic music in South America. Over a weekend a series of workshops and demonstrations are held, while huge parties, of course, also feature.
Festival of Guitars of the World: Held in October every year, guitarists from around the world come to Buenos Aires for 13 days of guitar madness. With musicians playing in various locations around the centre of the city, locals are encouraged to sign up as well. A variety of traditional and obscure styles are showcased.
http://festivalguitarrasdelmundo.com/
Buenos Aires Record Stores
Miles, Honduras 4912, Palermo
Perhaps the most iconic record store in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires, the multi-genre shop has existed in the central area of the city for more than three decades. It’s also known to have one of the friendliest owners of any shops around. On top of being courteous to all customers (native Spanish-speakers and otherwise) Gustavo Broic, is meant to be the Rob Gordon of the Argentinean record store scene; he knows absolutely all.
Maniac, Cabildo 2040, Galería Boulevard Los Andes Local 90, Belgrano
By far the strangest record store on our list, Maniac exclusively sells Japanese editions of CDs. Yes, you heard right. Opened due to the owner’s obsession with Japan’s technological and audio advances, the store has a huge following amongst audiophiles and music loves alike. Definitely one that has to be seen to be believed.
Abraxas, Santa Fe 1270, local 74
With 25 years of experience this record store caters for fans of rock music with it only selling rock-related vinyl 1950 to the present year. The staff at Abraxas ensure that their store is more than just a music shop but a guide to rock music.
Bonus Track, Corrientes 1246, Galería del Optico, Congreso
Home to the largest collection of vinyl in Buenos Aires, this shop sells both Vinyl and CDs. The size of the collection might be too daunting for some who don’t know what they’re looking for, but the staff at Bonus Track are more than willing to help in anyway possible.
Buenos Aires Bars
Mitos Argentinos, Humberto I 1489, San Telmo
Up and coming rock nacional bands take to the stage to play covers and originals for the crowd. The venue has been open since the mid 90s and with cheap entry there is little excuse to pay a visit to Mitos Argentinos. The bands usually play short sets, so there’s no need to be down if you’re not enjoying one of the acts.
Salon Pueyrredón, Avenida Sante Fe 4560
Considered amongst many as a punk bar, don’t be surprised if you see a dog collar or two, as well as plenty of tattoos and mohawks. But this bar, which is incredibly popular with the locals, attracts a diverse crowd of rock fans. Salon Pueyrredón plays host to emerging rock bands, while DJs take over once the bands are finished. The drinks are cheap and strong.
Ultra, San Martin 678, Centro
The owners of this venue have also run an independent record label for more than 10 years. Ultra also displays art on occasions, but it is more known for throwing parties that last until the morning on weekends, whilst during the week local bands play. Sometimes the venue also hosts small festivals.
Buenos Aires Acts You Should Check Out
Onda Vaga – Soundcloud
This catchy folk music outfit are on the rise in Buenos Aires. The five piece outfit first formed in 2007 and have two albums to their name, Strong and Hot released in 2008 and Wild Spirit in 2010. Listen to their song ‘Parque Seco’ below.
Soda Stereo – Soundcloud
Considered as one of the most influential and important Latin American acts of all time, the trio were at the forefront of the Rock Nacional scene during the 80s and achieved international success. As the bands career progressed they became a heavier alternative band from when they started. They have released seven albums, listen to one of their biggest hits ‘De Música Ligera’ below.
The Ocean – Soundcloud
In their infancy, this five0piece have only just recorded their first EP, 1.0 Longing, which is to be released in February 2013. Their indie rock sound shows off yet another side to the diverse Buenos Aires scene. Choosing to sing in English, listen to their song ‘Beauty’ below.
Tanghetto – Soundcloud
As their name suggests, this outfit is a mix of Tango music and electro. Formed in 2002 the band have toured worldwide and have three studio albums to their name amongst many other releases. They’re considered to be one of the most important acts of the Neo Tango scene. Check out their incredible cover of The White Stripes’ ‘Seven Nation Army’ below.
